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HOW A DOG LEARNS
Dogs are amoral. They have no concept of
right or wrong.
The learning process begins shortly after a dog is born and continues throughout their life. Anything rewarding is likely to be repeated, anything unrewarding will be avoided. To expand on this... a reward is anything that the dog perceives as a reward and unrewarding does not necessarily have to be unpleasant .. just unrewarding. By understanding this simple concept it is easy to see how we can unintentionally teach our dogs to behave in an unacceptable manner. Probably the best example of unintentional training is the dog that imitates a steam train all the way to the park! He pulls on the lead, you follow behind. If however you refuse point blank to move forward when the lead is tight and progress towards the reward (park) is only made when the lead is slack then the walk will become a much more pleasant experience for you both. If your dog acts like a complete hooligan when you arrive at the park, you put it down to excitement and reward the behaviour by letting him off the lead. This then becomes a learned behaviour which he will develop into a fine art! We should only reward the behaviour that we consider appropriate, sit and wait whilst I remove your lead or act like a hooligan and stay on the lead. With the exception of pulling on lead, the recall is possibly the biggest problem for dog owners. Refusing to come when called is in itself rewarding for the dog. More free time to do as he pleases. No amount of ranting and raving on your part is going to persuade him to come back to you. In fact it will only warn him to stay away, especially if you have punished him in the past when he has eventually returned to you. To get a reliable recall from your dog it is essential to teach him that coming to you does not necessarily mean the end of the walk or that he is not allowed to play with other dogs. Call him to you, praise him and reward him by letting him go again giving him permission to go play. By using reward-based methods we can train our dog in a way that he understands, thus speeding up the learning process. Similarly any undesired behaviours must be unrewarding, not unpleasant, just unrewarding. So if your dog acts like a hooligan on the end of the lead, don’t punish him for it (after all you probably taught him to do it) just ignore him until his behaviour is appropriate and then reward him by continuing with the walk or letting him off lead. Contrary to popular belief, training your dog does not automatically put you in control. Whilst it is possible to use force to ensure that your dog complies with your wishes you would run the risk of being unsuccessful in your attempts thus entering into a test of strength with him. To train your dog successfully you must first of all establish the RIGHT to lead and then teach him what you want. To do this requires an understanding of the behaviour of all pack animals. UNDERSTANDING YOUR DOGtopEveryone who owns a dog is made aware that to enjoy a good relationship with him he must see his master as the boss. Yet despite this knowledge a large percentage of dog owners still have 'dominance-related' problems with the family pet. The main reason for this is the age-old myth that you must use physical force and punishment to establish rank. If your dog sees you as pack leader it will never be necessary to resort to this, if he doesn't then it will cause more problems than it will solve. Dogs and humans are both social animals that are well adapted to living in groups. This is one of the main reasons we get along together so well. In human society, as in dog or wolf packs, a pecking order exists. This enables each individual to know where they stand in relation to other members of their society and avoids unnecessary conflicts. The same is true when humans and dogs live together. Many problems experienced by pet owners are usually due to a lack of understanding on the owners part of doggy rules and etiquette and a tendency to treat dogs as if they are human. Additionally, dogs do not instinctively understand human rules, many of which are so fundamental to us that we sometimes forget that they are not to our dogs. In order to maintain a good relationship between our dogs and ourselves it is necessary for us to teach our dogs what we expect. By doing this we also establish our dogs respect and the right to lead, making training easy and fun for dog and owner alike. To understand how your dog views life it is important to understand these instincts. You should consider what is important to him:
You may think that if you give your dog all of these things then he will be content and therefore the perfect pet. This would be true if all that you require of your dog is to live in your home and behave as a normal dog. Unfortunately very few people want this of a pet dog. A normal dog scavenges or hunts for food to eat (unless of course food is readily available without doing so), he sleeps wherever he chooses (usually the most comfy place like your sofa or bed), he comes and goes whenever he pleases (not when you call him), he chews whatever looks interesting or tasty (his toys, your TV remote, the chair leg etc), he guards his possessions and his territory from anyone who threatens them (could be you or your kids), he toilets anywhere which is not close to his sleeping and feeding areas (this may still be in the house) and scent marks to make others aware of his territory. This is all normal dog behavior; however most of it would be quite unacceptable for a pet dog living in a home. Although dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years they still retain the instincts of their wild ancestors. Selective breeding has exaggerated some of these behaviors for the benefit of man, such as the role of the German Shepherd as a guard dog or the herding abilities of the Border Collie. The instincts for survival however remain intact. These are learned in the nest and puppies, from the moment they are born, will be establishing rank within the litter. The most dominant puppy will usually get the most productive teat at the milk bar and as they get older will take the largest share of the food offered by the breeder. In the wild and in times of famine this would ensure that only the fittest survive to reproduce next year. They will sleep in the warmest and comfiest part of the nest. They will gain and retain possession of toys, only allowing the more submissive members of the litter access to these trophies if they do not want them, with the knowledge that they can regain possession at any time they want! If you have more than one dog they will have amicably sorted out their own pecking order. It is wise to bear in mind that if you grant more privileges to the lower ranking dog(s), such as giving them more attention in the presence of the higher ranking dog(s) you run the risk of upsetting the balance and causing problems. Hopefully this helps you to realise how much we are asking of our dogs when we expect them to live in our homes and follow our rules and why problems so frequently arise. If you enjoy a good relationship with you dog and find training easy and enjoyable then there is no need to alter the way in which you live with your dog. If however you find yourself constantly nagging him and getting little or no response to your attempts at basic training then you may need to consider controlling some of the things that he wants. You will probably be pleasantly surprised to find that he will become much happier and more secure. By asking your dog to earn the valuable things in his life you automatically put yourself in control. He needs you to feed him, walk him, keep him warm and comfy and provide company for him. WHO'S BOSS?topHow do you recognise if your dog is taking advantage of you or other members of his human family? Look for these signs:-
When you first bring your puppy or older dog into your home, it will take him a while to settle into your household and learn your rules. He will observe and learn from the behaviour of those around him, and work out how to get the things he wants. If he can eat whenever he wants, have all the toys he wants, whenever he wants them, is allowed freedom throughout the house and given attention whenever he demands it then he will never learn to cope with frustration If you find yourself constantly nagging him and getting little or no response to your attempts at basic training then you may need to consider controlling some of the things that he wants. You will probably be pleasantly surprised to find that he will become much happier and more secure. By asking your dog to earn the valuable things in his life you automatically put yourself in control. He needs you to feed him, walk him, keep him warm and comfy and provide company for him. If you get cross and frustrated with
your dog then he will learn, from your example, to get cross and frustrated when
he doesn't get what he wants. Any attempts by you to discipline him will be seen
as confusing and unpredictable behaviour, or worse still taken to be a
challenge, one that he may readily accept and more than likely win! By acting in
a calm controlled manner, concentrating on positive training, your dog will know
what to expect, see you as an unflappable leader, and be eager to learn. top House rules inevitably vary from family to family and the type of dog you have should also be considered. Some dogs are more independent than others, some are more confident. Independent breeds often need to earn more of their resources in order to motivate them to do things for their owners rather for themselves. Jack Russells who were bred to work on their own initiative are a good example of this. Some breeds are naturally more owner orientated and therefore will be more prepared to do as they are asked for perhaps less of a reward. Labradors, bred to work with humans in the field are a good example. Some breeds are more inclined to guard food and possessions, others to run off, others to demand attention. Be aware of your dog’s drives and instincts and it will make deciding on rules and training priorities much easier. Some useful house rules and routines to consider are: · Don’t always feed your dog from his food bowl. Use his food for training, stuff it into his toys, hide it in the garden. His food is often the easiest thing to motivate him with – don’t waste it. Get your dog used to eating food away from home straight away – greedy dogs are the easiest to train! · Keep favourite toys out of the way and bring them out on walks or for training. By keeping the toys novel they are far more likely to be a motivator for your dog. This also shows him that the toys are yours and raises your status. Don’t allow him to demand games, this will reduce your ability to start a game with him when you want to play and could make it hard to use toys for rewards. · Restrict his access to you and certain areas of the house. There may be times when you need to shut him away and he needs to get used to this straight away. It also makes it easier for him to accept you leaving him alone in the house if he does not have constant access to you when you are there. · Guarding breeds especially may be inclined to bark at people passing the house or when in the garden and this behaviour is self rewarding as the people will usually keep on walking as they weren’t visiting anyway. Your dog however doesn’t know this and thinks he scared them off, thus reinforcing the behaviour. Denying your dog access to these areas or bringing him in as soon as he starts showing the behaviour easily avoids this. · If you don’t mind your dog jumping onto the furniture or your bed make sure you teach him to get off when you ask. Do this without forcing him but by making it fun and rewarding him, perhaps with a treat, when he gets off. If he resists this or becomes possessive of the furniture then he shouldn’t be allowed on at all. If you don’t want him to get on the furniture then make this clear from day one. Make it more desirable on the floor and if he persists on trying to get on furniture then take him out of the room so he can’t. Be careful he doesn’t jump on just to get your attention – even if it is just a ‘get off’. · If he tries to barge past you through doors, simply shut the door and continue opening and shutting until he backs off enough for you to go through first. This is a safety exercise as much as anything – you never know when the front door will be left open. · If you don’t want him to beg at the table then never feed him from your plate and if food is likely to be dropped then don’t allow him near the table. It only takes one piece of food to teach him its worth a try. Ideally give him something else to do – a favourite bone to chew perhaps. · If you don’t want your dog to chew your things then do not give him access to them. Dogs will chew whatever comes to hand until they have learned what is and isn’t appropriate to chew. When he is young give him lots of praise and attention for chewing the right things and try to avoid him getting hold of the wrong things. If he does get something he shouldn’t, do not chase him or tell him off. Teach him to swap for a tasty treat or something of his own and he will not only learn what he should chew but also a good retrieve. · Get your dog used to being handled and groomed as soon as he arrives. This should be a pleasant experience for him and sessions are best kept short. Some dogs do not like being restrained, if he struggles hold him firmly until he settles and then let him go. Do not let children maul a dog, teach them how to handle him gently and considerately. · Although dogs thrive on routine, very few of us have a regular unchanging routine from day to day. Weekdays are different to weekends; holidays different again; evening activities may vary. It can be useful to vary your dog’s walk and feeding routine a little to enable him to cope with any changes that may come up. A dog who is always fed at 5.30 on the dot will be far more distressed if you have to be out at that time one day, than one who is sometimes fed at 4 and sometimes at 6. Your dog should fit around your routine from the beginning and not the other way round. Of course some concessions must be made but try not to let him rule your life (unless of course you want him to!). It is a common misconception that physical strength and force are required to establish leadership. Although it is possible to physically force dogs to comply, this approach is very limited and also can result in making a dog nervous or aggressive and lead to many unnecessary problems. It is also a misconception that an aggressive or problem dog is so because he is ‘dominant’. This is a much-overused term and while it is true that some dogs are stronger characters than others it is more likely that the problem has been caused by communication problems between dog and owner or inappropriate training. If you feel that
your dog is challenging you, do not try to compete by physically or verbally
chastising him. By doing this you may show your dog that you are his equal or
are inferior, especially if you do not succeed, and as such do not have the
right to train him. Pack leaders whether they are human or canine do not gain
their status through aggression but through the ability to solve conflict
peacefully. Step back and try to look at it from your dog’s point of view and
you may find problems easier to solve. A simple change of a rule or a different
training approach may work but always aim to work on a problem as soon as it
arises. Do not leave it until if develops into a bad habit as these are always
much harder to change. Some popular myths on the subject of dogs and their training... topYou should wait
until a dog is at least 6 months old before you start to train it.... Spayed bitches
and castrated dogs put on weight... Using a choke
chain will stop a dog pulling on the lead... When meeting a
strange dog you should offer it the back of your hand to smell... You should take
a dog's food away from him to make him more tolerant... To gain your
dog's respect and obedience you must show him who's boss by using force and
confrontation... What is a responsible dog owner?topIf all of the following apply to you then you qualify.... A RESPONSIBLE DOG OWNER...
SOME POINTS TO CONSIDER... FOR ANYONE THINKING OF BREEDING FROM THEIR DOG OR BITCH. REASONS FOR BREEDING..
There are literally
thousands and thousands of dogs in this country that do not have a home. PLEASE
do not add to the problem by producing more. Talk to your vet about having your
dog neutered. top SIT. DOWN. STAND. WAIT. STAY. COME. HEEL.We’ll start with the basics. What every dog should know. These are the exercises that you will learn to teach your dog in puppy class or a beginners course. If there is anything there that you don’t want to teach your dog, then you don’t have to. If you’d like to teach him something else then we’ll show you how. All dogs are different and some will learn quicker than others depending on breed, how much time the owner has to train and how many bad habits need to be untaught etc. A Labrador will probably learn to retrieve much quicker than a Basset Hound (in fact anything will learn anything much quicker than a Basset Hound) (Only joking!! Apologies to Basset owners) Find out as much as possible about your breed or in the case of a crossbreed about the breeds that may be his ancestors. It will help you to be patient with him during training if you know what he was originally bred for. To avoid boredom keep training sessions short but frequent. Young puppies, whilst very capable of learning have a short attention span. Above all keep it fun. Remembering the principle that anything a dog is rewarded for he is likely to repeat, it makes sense to reward your dog for the correct responses during training. So what is a reward? Absolutely anything that the dog wants! The two main requirements for the survival of a species are food and reproduction. We can’t use sex but we can use food. Whilst some dogs may be happy with a toy or just your approval and praise, eating is usually the highlight of the day for most dogs. It is therefore not unreasonable to expect your dog to earn part of his daily food ration just as we have had to earn the money to buy it. Be prepared to reward your dog for every correct response when you start teaching him something new. Once he fully understands what is required of him then rewards can be given randomly with jackpot rewards for a really good performance. What we call the fruit machine principle! You would soon get bored with playing a fruit machine if it paid out every time (assuming the pay out was lower than the stake) but with random pay outs and occasional jackpots, playing it becomes enjoyable. Here at SCALLYWAGS, you will be shown how to teach your dog to respond to basic commands using the ‘hands off’ method. Whilst using your hands to place your dog in a sit or a down will work with most dogs, they are doing it because they HAVE to, not because they WANT to. However gentle you are some dogs will resent being pushed, pulled and shoved and this can lead to your dog avoiding your hands and indeed you. The ‘hands off’ method will work equally well with a 6 week old puppy, a 6 month old adolescent dog and a 6 year old adult dog. To teach your dog to respond to your instructions you must first of all make sure that you can guarantee the response. Try this simple experiment. Show your dog a food treat, when he looks at you say his name and give him the treat. Repeat this several times. Now wait for him to look away. This time say his name first and then give him the treat just for looking at you. Don’t try this one but if you’ve done it you’ll know it works! Say your dog’s name and when he comes to you do one of the following.
Repeat several times. Now say his name and watch him totally ignore you! Now that you have taught your dog to respond to his name by making it rewarding, try the sit. Say his name and with a food treat in your hand raise it slowly above and over his head at his eye level. When he looks up the chances are his rear end will go down. If it does give him the reward. DO NOT PUT A VERBAL COMMAND TO IT AT THIS STAGE. When the response to your hand signal is immediate every time then add the command ‘sit’. By using this method you can teach your dog to do anything that you would like him to do, providing he is physically capable of doing it, and it also becomes unnecessary to use any negative commands which may serve to confuse him. By asking your dog to do something when you are not 100% certain that he will comply is simply teaching him that he doesn’t have to obey if he doesn’t want to, especially if the reward is greater for not obeying. Beware of teaching your dog that ‘sit’ means sit if I’m holding your ball but if I say ‘sit’ whilst I’m trying to remove your lead you don’t have to. If you are certain that your dog understands the meaning of the word you simply give the instruction ONCE and then wait for him to sit before removing his lead, even if it takes an hour. Next time the response will be quicker. BE CONSISTENT when teaching your dog. One word must mean one thing. If your dog lies down on the command ‘down’ then don’t expect him to know that ‘get down’ also means get off the settee. Think about what you are saying to your dog. Most dogs taught to obey ‘sit’, ‘stand’ & ‘down’ will also give the same response to ‘spit’, ‘hand’ & ‘brown’. Words used to instruct your dog must be short, simple and distinctive in their sounds from each other. They must also be said in a quiet, but not monotonous, tone of voice. If you constantly shout at your dog he will simply stop listening. Save the shouting for an emergency. It WILL work if it is an unusual occurrence! Praise is very important when training your dog. If you are pleased with him then tell him so. You would find our classes boring and uninteresting if your instructor didn’t occasionally tell you how well you were doing with your dog. And if they don’t, you aren’t! HOUSE TRAININGtopYoung puppies, like human babies, have very little control over their bodily functions and need to relieve themselves frequently. Usually after a meal, after taking a drink, on waking, after and/or during a period of activity and in most cases at least once an hour during the day and a couple of times during the night. House training a puppy is a full time job! You will need to take him out into the garden frequently and wait patiently for him to perform. Giving a reward and plenty of praise when he goes in the right place will let him know that you approve of him going to the toilet. Reprimanding him and showing displeasure when he goes indoors will tell him that you disapprove of him going to the toilet! If you have to leave your puppy unattended for any length of time then he is quite likely to have to relieve himself during your absence. Whilst putting newspaper down certainly aids the cleaning up process don’t forget who taught him to do it when he wees on the Sunday Telegraph before you’ve done the crossword. Any accidents indoors SHOULD BE COMPLETELY IGNORED If your puppy looks as if he is about to relieve himself indoors and you are in a position to intervene then quickly, without frightening him pick him up and take him to the garden and praise and reward as usual when he goes in the right place. If however you fail to notice that he needs to go and he relieves himself indoors a reprimand will almost certainly jeopardise what training you have already done. As he sees it he has been yelled at for simply answering the call of nature and he is very unlikely to ever go when you are watching again, whether indoors or in the garden thus making it impossible for you to reward the correct behaviour. He will simply wait until you are not looking or else go behind the settee! AND RUBBING HIS NOSE IN IT IS NOT TRAINING. IT IS ABUSE. By rewarding your puppy when he goes in the right place and ignoring what he does in all the wrong places he will very soon learn to save up all his pees and poos and cash them in for food treats. Of course if you spend a few days being extra vigilant then accidents will be very few and far between. Once he understands what is required of him as far as toilet training is concerned then give it a command. Something that you can say without embarrassment when you are away from home with your dog but don’t encourage him to go if you are only on a short walk, ask him to go in the garden before you leave. Always carry a suitable poop-scoop with you just in case and don’t forget that if your dog does need to go whilst you are out together then YOU MUST PICK IT UP AND TAKE IT HOME. After all it still belongs to you, you bought it and put it in the other end. A rolled up newspaper can be a very effective tool in housetraining a puppy if used properly. If he has an accident indoors, simply take the rolled up newspaper and hit yourself over the head repeatedly whilst reciting the words "I forgot to watch my dog. I forgot to watch my dog." If your puppy laughs at you whilst you do this, praise him. PUPPY SOCIALISATIONtopEveryone who acquires a young puppy is aware of the need to house train him, to teach him to walk on a lead etc. but the most important aspect of bringing up a pup tends to be overlooked resulting in large numbers of fearful, aggressive and unwanted young adult dogs being placed in rescue centres or euthanised. The importance of early socialisation cannot be over stressed. From the moment a puppy is born it should be accustomed to being handled, firstly by the breeder and then gradually by other people - men, women and children of all ages. It should also be exposed to other stimuli such as the T.V., the hoover etc. A litter of puppies reared in a busy chaotic house will be much less likely to develop fearful behaviour than puppies from a litter that have been reared in a kennel or a quiet room in the house. The one major drawback to early socialisation is the need for vaccinations. Obviously puppies must not be exposed to any source of infection until their vaccinations are complete. Whilst a puppy still retains immunity from the major infectious diseases from it’s mother, inoculations would be ineffective. That is why we tend to wait until a puppy is 10 - 12 weeks old before we start his vaccination programme. However this does not mean that your puppy must be completely isolated until that time. Always take your vet’s advice as far as your puppy’s well being is concerned but do please talk to him about socialising. You should accustom your puppy, at an early age, to everything that he is likely to encounter in his life time. Start by inviting lots of different people to your house to meet him, especially young children but don’t let them overwhelm him. If your children are teenagers then it’s quite likely that you may have grandchildren to visit during your dog’s lifetime. This could cause a problem if your dog has not mixed with many children before. Invite a friend with a young baby to your house for a coffee so that your puppy gets used to the sound of a baby crying. Take him in your arms to the gate to meet the postman and the milkman etc... Take him on short journeys in the car, not sitting on a lap, but where he will have to travel as an adult. Carry him in your arms, maybe with a blanket around him to the street corner to get him used to traffic. Take him into the bank and the pet shop where he can meet lots of strangers. He needs to meet people wearing hats and crash helmets, people with walking sticks, people riding horses, and people that don’t like dogs and will ignore him. Once his inoculations are complete then this socialisation must continue with him walking on a lead. Whilst meeting other dogs is very important, be careful that the dogs your puppy encounters are well socialised or they may lack communication skills. If your puppy is attacked by another dog then the chances are that he will attack first, next time he meets another dog. The best place to socialise your puppy is at a well organised puppy class where puppies will be able to learn from each other how to read body language and facial expression etc. It is important to remember that if your dog or puppy meets another dog and one or both of them is on a lead, communication between the two dogs is impossible if the owner(s) hold the lead tight and this will invariably lead to a problem. When two dogs meet for the first time they will usually interact much better if their human owners leave them to it. This socialisation must continue until a puppy is at least 6 or 7 months old. Socialisation and habituation can wear off if a puppy is suddenly isolated for any length of time before that age. That is why a long stay in a kennel environment would not be good for a puppy under 6 months old although an overnight or weekend stay in a boarding kennels would be advantageous if you intend to take an annual holiday without your dog. Accustom him to being groomed and handled on a daily basis. If your dog is going to be long coated as an adult, a short grooming session each day as a puppy teaching him to stand still or roll over to brush his tummy is a sound investment for the future. Even short coated dogs should be examined all over every day for lumps & bumps, ticks etc. Look in his ears and mouth, pick up his feet and tail. Once he is happy for you to do this then invite visitors to do the same so he will be relaxed at the vets etc. If your puppy does show fear at anything new that is introduced to him, it is important that you remain calm and unaffected so as to ‘set an example’. If you fuss and reassure his, this will only reinforce his fear. Also do not force him to approach whatever is causing his fear as this will only make matters worse. He needs to be re- introduced to it, staring from a distance and gradually de-sensitising him to it. Failure to socialise and habituate a dog as a puppy can result in fearful behaviour towards the unknown. A fearful dog will usually choose to flee from the cause of the fear. If however he is unable to get away, he may be on the lead, indoors or in the car, then he will want to make the cause of the fear go away. This he will do by showing aggression. More often than not this behaviour is reinforced, the cause of the fear WILL go away. People will back of, the postman will deliver the letters and leave. The more this show of aggression works, the better the dog will get at it, he may even start to move towards people and other dogs, showing aggression intent on attacking them. Whilst this behaviour can sometimes be cured with the correct approach and a lot of time and patience it is better to prevent it from happening in the first place by bringing up your puppy correctly and letting him grow into a happy and well adjusted adult. PUPPY BITING & MOUTHINGtopOnce a litter of puppies becomes active they play with each other by pulling ears, tails and anything else that they can grab but because of the very sharp teeth that Mother Nature deliberately gave them they very quickly learn to be gentle with each other. Most puppies when they leave the litter at around 8 weeks old will want to continue these games with their new family. It is always a good idea to allow a puppy to experience play biting with us so that they can learn how fragile our skin is and so inhibit their bite. In order to teach our puppy that humans are wimps and cannot tolerate the play biting on the same scale as their brothers & sisters you should first of all tell them that it hurts by screaming in pain. Nothing too dramatic, just a loud, sharp OUCH!!! Most puppies will now be gentler, especially if you emphasise this by refusing to carry on with the game when they bite hard. If you are the lucky owner of one of the minority of dogs who actually enjoys inflicting pain then you will need to simulate the behaviour of his litter mate. Walk away and find someone else to play with! Never bite him back, hit him, threaten him or punish him physically in any way otherwise the play biting will become defence biting and much more difficult to eliminate. Once puppy has learnt to be gentle with his biting/mouthing you can then teach him not to do it at all. At anytime during play that his teeth go on to you or your clothes, you must immediately terminate the game. Stand up, leave the room and close the door behind you or step over a stair gate. For the persistent hanger-oner you will need to use a training/house line so that you can step out of puppy's reach. If you aren't playing with him when the biting occurs then he is trying to attract your attention. Same rules apply. Stand up, leave the room and close the door behind you, and in future try to give him attention when he is being good. Young children will usually be the most popular target for puppies play biting. Constant supervision will ensure that this doesn't get out of hand. Young children should never be left alone with a dog, not even for a second. A cardboard box for the child to step into when puppy 'attacks' feet should be kept to hand. Play fighting and chasing games should never be encouraged between puppies and children or the adolescent dog will be very difficult to control around children. Supervise CONTROLLED games such as chasing and fetching a ball or hide and seek with food treats and toys. To avoid brushing and towel drying becoming a play fighting game with your puppy, start grooming and handling sessions at a very young age. One stroke with a brush and a reward for not biting. Then two strokes and so on. If all else fails, spread marmite on the fridge door and groom him while he licks it off. Some dogs will be more persistent especially if they have previously been allowed to mouth, bite or chew or have been punished inappropriately in the past. Most of our attempts to stop a puppy biting will usually be interpreted by puppy as a game! Removing your attention is the only response required. As with everything, some dogs will learn quicker than
others. Be consistent, be patient but above all be kind.
LEAD TRAINING - WALKING ON A LOOSE LEAD topChoose a well-fitting and suitable collar for your puppy and introduce him to wearing it by just putting it on for a few moments whilst you distract him with a toy, treats or his dinner. Remove it only if he is not fussing about it. Gradually increase the amount of time that he is wearing it, always making it a pleasant experience for him, until he is quite happy and can wear it permanently. Next accustom him to you holding on to his collar because you will have to do this to attach the lead. Take his collar gently with one hand and give him a treat with the other. Increase the length of time that you hold on to him, again making sure that it is a pleasant experience for him. Before attempting to get your puppy to walk on a lead teach him the benefits of walking beside you around the house and the garden without a lead on by giving him his dinner one piece at a time as he walks with you. Once he is happy to walk along with you in this way attach the lead to his collar and loop the other end over your wrist or tuck it into your belt and do exactly the same. Hey presto! Dog walking on loose lead. Providing that you are praising and rewarding your puppy when he is walking beside you and that you are not pulling on the lead, then the chances are that he will always walk beside you. Most dogs pull only because we give them something to pull against. All of this should be done well in advance of puppy's first walk in the big wide world. If your dog becomes over excited at the sight or sound of the lead because it means 'walkies' insist that he sits whilst you put it on. If he refuses then put the lead away and try again in 5 minutes. It is better to spend 1 hour putting on and taking off the lead whilst your dog remains calm than to spend 12 years being dragged to the park and back! If you leave the house calmly, continue praising and rewarding whilst he walks beside you and stop the praise (say nothing) and stand still if he pulls ahead, then he will never learn to pull on the lead. He must still be allowed to stop and sniff occasionally providing that the lead doesn't go tight. This method will work equally well with the dog that has already learnt to pull. It will just take more time and patience. Look at things from the dog's point of view. He's pulling on the lead because he is in a rush to get to the park. He's also happy in the knowledge that you're still there behind him because he can feel you pulling on the other end and hear you shouting "heel" at him! In other words pulling is rewarding! So let's change this concept. If he pulls on the lead it's because he wants you to take another step forward. REFUSE! Stand still and stop talking to him. Even walk backwards away from what he is pulling towards if necessary. Reward only the desired behaviour. A loose lead. It is important that your lead is of sufficient length to allow it to stay loose. If it is very short, you wind it around your hand or you pull it up or back then your dog will have little opportunity to keep it loose. The more accustomed your dog becomes to pressure around his neck, the more he will pull. Do not rely on your lead to control your dog. It is the least reliable form of control. If you accidentally drop it or it breaks then you will probably lose your dog. If he rarely feels pressure around his neck then apart from the fact that you're unlikely to drop the lead or have it break, if it did he would not be aware and would continue to walk beside you anyway! If your dog was at the front of the queue when persistence
was handed out and you were at the back of the patience queue then you may wish
to consider using a head collar such as a
Gentle Leader,
Halti or figure of eight design. There are also harnesses on the market that are
designed to stop a dog wanting to pull. Never resort to a choke chain. The
theory that a dog will stop pulling if you choke him or give him a sharp jerk
around the neck is a very outdated one. You could cause untold damage to his
neck, vertebrae, voice box and coat. JUMPING UP- GREETING AT THE DOOR topAll of us, I am sure, have at some time in our lives fussed a young puppy whilst his front feet were on our lap. It’s human nature! So why do dogs jump up? We teach them to. If your dog jumps up at you, don’t punish him when his only crime has been to grow! And don’t expect him to know the difference between your gardening clothes and your ‘Sunday go to church’ clothes! IF YOU DON'T WANT YOUR ADULT DOG TO DO IT. DON'T LET YOUR PUPPY DO IT! If you have a young puppy then only give him attention when all four feet are on the ground and make sure that everyone else, family, visitors, even strangers in the park do the same. If he jumps up simply turn around, walk away and say nothing. Dogs jump up because;
Once you have taught your dog to sit on command, remember that there are a lot of things a dog cannot do whilst it is sitting and jumping up is one of them. By asking your dog to sit and praising and rewarding him whilst he is or totally ignoring him if he jumps up it is relatively easy to teach him not to jump up at you but what about visitors or people you meet when out walking? It is not always possible to know how your visitors or strangers on a walk will react when meeting your dog or whether they will comply with your instructions to ignore unwanted behaviour. It therefore makes sense to set up training sessions with willing volunteers who have been briefed beforehand. It is just possible that there are another couple of dogs in your street who have the same problem and you could help each other. Teach your dog to sit and stay in one place in the hall, maybe on a mat, when there are no distractions. Then add the distraction of a member of the family going out of the door and knocking. Once your dog can carry out a sit stay in this situation then have a coffee morning. Invite 10 friends (dog loving humans). Prior to the event give each person a handful of your dog's favourite food treats and synchronise watches! Have each person arrive at 2 minute intervals. Put your dog in his usual sit stay and invite the first visitor in. If he stays he must be rewarded with a treat from the visitor, if he moves he must be completely ignored by them. If 10 people come in the front door and out of the back door 10 times that's 100 exposures to a treat if you sit and stay and nothing if you don't. To start with the dog will probably be ignored by everyone maybe 2 or 3 times but eventually the same faces will become familiar and less exciting and he can then start to learn how to get his reward. During this training period any unexpected visitors must completely ignore the dog unless he behaves in the desired manner and you will probably need to repeat the coffee morning training session several more times for it to have a maximal and long lasting effect on the dog. The same method can be adapted when meeting strangers in the park. Arrange to meet people at 2 minute intervals on a circuit of your usual walk and apply the same rules. N.B. If you ever were unfortunate enough to have an
up-to-no-good person at your door, the out of control dog could very easily slip
out of the door whilst the axe murderer pushes you in and slams the door closed! RECALL - COMING WHEN CALLED (OR NOT!!) topWhen do you call your dog?.....
If you have a recall problem then it will probably be easier to teach your dog to come when called if you first of all understand how easy it is to teach him NOT TO COME when called. Remember: Anything rewarding is likely to be repeated. Anything unrewarding will be ignored and anything unpleasant will be avoided. Let’s look at things from the dog’s point of view:- Fido is in the garden chasing birds, sniffing, generally having a good time. He hears you calling him. He comes in and the door is shut behind him. You leave the house and go to work. He’s in the garden having his good doggy time again. He hears you calling him but remembering what happened about this time yesterday is understandably reluctant to come in. You go out and try to catch him to bring him in and treat him to a wonderful game of chase! Now when you call him in from the garden he can choose to come in for no reward, not come in and hang it out for the chase game and of course you could always give him a third option. A clip around the ear when you catch him will ensure that the game lasts much, much longer! If you are at the park with your dog and the only time you call him to you is to put the lead back on and take him home then it won’t take him very long to learn that coming when called is unrewarding. So how do you get a reliable recall from your dog? You ALWAYS reward your dog for coming to you when you call him. You call him in from the garden, give him a food treat, his dinner (or part of), a game, a toy, some fuss and attention and nine times out of ten you let him go back out again. At the park play with him, not just leaving him to make his own entertainment, coming to you and being with you must be FUN! Frequently put on and take off his lead with an accompanying food treat so that the sight of the lead does not become a negative reinforcement. Try not to always end his free run at the same place every day for obvious reasons. Teaching the word ‘come’As with anything that you wish to teach your dog you must make it very easy for his to do it right and very difficult for him to do it wrong! There is no point constantly asking a dog to come when it has no idea what the word means or it has no intention of coming because you’ve already taught him what it means! To start with train him where there are no distractions so that getting his attention will be relatively easy. Lure him with a food treat into a sit in front of you and say the word ‘come’ as you give him a small piece of food. Keep his attention and keep feeding him all the time that he remains sitting in front. Say OK and stop feeding. He will learn from this to stay there until he hears a release word (OK) When you are certain that he associates the word ‘come’ with sitting in front of you and being rewarded then and only then should you ask him to do it. If it works in the house then try it in the garden. Introduce distractions gradually. Don’t expect your dog to come when he’s playing with another dog at the park if he’s only ever obeyed the command in the kitchen on her own with you. Always give him more than one food treat for a recall thus teaching him to remain sat in front of you until you tell him otherwise. Beware of teaching him to come, grab the treat and run. To get a reliable recall from your dog whatever the situation remember these golden rules.
N.B. Even the most reliable and well
trained dog may occasionally err and decide to ignore the command to come. If
this happens and he still gets her reward for coming eventually, he will learn
that it is just as rewarding to take his time as it is to come straight away. In
this situation it would be wise to withhold the reward and then increase it for
subsequent first-rate recalls! DESTRUCTIVENESS WHEN LEFT ALONE topFifi is punished everytime she is caught chewing the carpet. She now refrains from chewing the carpet when her owner is home but becomes destructive when left alone. When her owner returns she slinks around ‘looking guilty’. The owner’s view: The dog learns from the punishment that chewing the carpet is wrong and does it to get back at me when I leave her. When I return she always knows that she has done wrong. The dog’s view: The dog learns that chewing the carpet when the owner is present is dangerous but safe when the owner is not present. She is slightly anxious about being left on her own and feels better when she chews. When the owner returns, the dog behaves appeasingly in order to turn off the owner’s anger which she has learned often happens at this time. The owner’s arrival home and/or the presence of the chewed carpet have become a predictor. The dog knows she’s about to be punished. She doesn’t know why. There is no doubt that the dog’s view is the correct one. We have known this for years but amazingly many dog owners still refuse to accept it! Dogs are social animals and are much happier when in company with other animals and people. However this doesn’t mean that your dog cannot be happy at being left at home alone. The most common cause of destructiveness and vocalisation when left is separation anxiety. This occurs most in dogs that have attention on demand when the owner is present. They simply cannot cope when they are deprived of that attention. Just as some people chew their nails to relieve stress, a dog will chew anything that is readily available to relieve her anxiety. It can be the door frame or the carpet by the door that you have just left from or perhaps something that you have just left lying around. If you think that your dog is suffering from separation anxiety then you need to consider the following;- When you are at home with your dog do not allow her to be with you all the time. Close a door between you occasionally. If this causes her to become anxious then it needs to be done very gradually, just a few seconds to start with but make sure that you only go back to her if she is quiet. Do not give her attention every time she demands it. If she nudges you for a stroke, walk away and ignore her and give attention only on your terms. However difficult you may find this to do, it will increase your dog’s confidence and make her less dependant on you. The rituals that we humans engage in before leaving the house, usually done in a rush, such as closing windows, turning off the T.V., moving anything that’s not nailed down out of reach of the dog, shouting at the children to get their shoes on, grabbing coats, keys etc. all serve to heighten the dog’s anxiety by telling her that we are going to leave. These things should be done at least an hour before you intend to leave the house (coats and keys already in the car) and that hour should be spent quietly reading a book and totally ignoring the dog. When it is time to go simply get up and walk out of the door. She probably won’t even wake up. These rituals should also be carried out individually throughout the day when you are not intending to go out so that the dog starts to disassociate certain signals with feeling of anxiety. Eat dinner with your coat on! Telling a dog off on your return for the damage caused will be counter- productive. Not only is she anxious about being left, her anxiety will be greatly increased by the anticipation of your return. If punishing her worked, she wouldn’t do it again, would she? Wagging a finger and warning her to be good whilst you are gone will also increase her anxiety because she is wondering what she has done wrong already! The destructiveness could also be a result of fear either of something happening inside or outside the house. The destruction is the result of the dog building himself a ‘security blanket’ to retreat into. Another reason for destruction could be attention seeking. If your dog is manipulative & pushy and chewing anything when you are present gets your attention then he will destroy your possessions to see if that will bring you back (which it does eventually). Dog’s that have little stimulation in their lives, especially the working breeds may chew simply out of boredom. It is a good idea to leave something for her that will keep her occupied during your absence such as a Kong toy stuffed with cream cheese and/or liver or a safe chew toy but this must be picked up on your return to maintain it’s novelty value. All puppies and some adult dogs will be better off left in an indoor kennel, something that will satisfy their natural denning instinct and help them to feel more secure. Fold-flat crates are readily available and whilst not cheap they will last for your dog’s lifetime and in the long run are far less inexpensive than a new carpet or three piece suite! FEEDINGtopWhat you feed your dog is purely personal choice but with so many different manufactured dog foods on the market it can become confusing to decide what is best for your dog. The most popular methods of feeding today’s pet dog are tinned meat, fresh and processed meat and complete foods. If what you are feeding suits your dog and your pocket then stick with it. If you are undecided or unsure that his current diet suits him then you may wish to change. If you are feeding tinned or fresh meat then it should be mixed with a plain biscuit, such as terrier meal, never with a complete biscuit. If you are feeding a complete food then it is not necessary (and can indeed be detrimental) to add anything else. We are what we eat and some behaviour problems can be attributed to diet, particularly hyper-activity. Many experienced dog owners, trainers and behaviourists will recommend feeding one of the higher quality complete foods. Whilst these may at first sight seem expensive, they are more concentrated than the cheaper foods which means that a smaller quantity will satisfy your dog’s appetite and of course there’s the added bonus of much less passing through and coming out at the other end! All of the better complete foods on the market also cater for the different stages of a dog’s growth. Puppy food for the very young, up to approximately 12 weeks for large breeds and 20 weeks for small breeds. A junior variety for aged up to 10 - 18 months again depending on size and a regular adult diet. There is also a low calorie, light diet for the fatties amongst us. Unlike cats, dogs do not need a variety of different foods in their diet. It will usually upset their stomach and you are much better off sticking to one type of food permanently. How many times a day you feed your dog is again down to personal choice. Obviously very young puppies should be fed little and often, then 4 times a day at 2-3 months, 3 times a day up to approximately 6 months old and then twice a day after that. You may if you wish reduce it to one meal a day at 10-12 months old but it is probably better to feed 2 smaller meals, a.m. & p.m. Regardless of what and when you feed your dog it is never a good idea to leave food down all the time for him. Allowing him to snack all day will mean that he won't eat a proper meal and it can also make him fussy over his food. If the only opportunity to eat is when you give it then he will learn to eat his food straight away. If he has access to food whenever he wants it then you will find it difficult to get him to respond to food during training. Why should he work for it when there’s a bowlful in the kitchen? And of course it is very unlikely that you will be able to do this should you decide to get another dog at some stage. If you wish to give your dog table scraps - fine, fresh vegetables will do him no harm, but some of the food that we humans eat (or don’t in this case) would be better off in the bin than in the dog! Dog’s do not have a sweet tooth so
giving sugary foods is only harmful to their teeth, they will not appreciate the
taste! Doggy chocs are okay but chocolate designed for human consumption is
poisonous to dogs and should NEVER be given to them. And should your dog ever
develop a taste for onions, these too can also poison them! top Agility is Britain’s fastest growing dog sport. Most weekends Agility shows are held up and down the country and top competitions are held at Crufts, Olympia and The Royal Show. Agility is terrific fun for dogs, handlers and spectators alike and it involves the dog being guided around a course of between 16 and 20 obstacles by her handler in as fast a time as possible without incurring faults. Much like show jumping except that you don’t sit on them! A course includes the three contact obstacles, ‘A’ ramp, dog walk and see saw, hurdles, 2’6” for standard dogs and 15” for mini dogs (under 15” at the shoulder), long jump, tyre, weave poles, flat tunnel and rigid tunnel. The contact obstacles are so called because the dog must make contact with the last 3 ft at each end (usually painted a different colour) so as not to incur penalties. Agility is governed by the Kennel Club and all dogs entered at a show must be Kennel Club registered. The working register is open to any dog of any ancestry (whether known or not) so this allows crossbreeds and mongrels as well as pedigree dogs to take part. No dog is allowed to compete before it is 18 months old and the ideal age to start training a dog for Agility is 12 months or slightly older for a large, heavy breed but an older dog providing that it is fit, will take to it just as well. There are several different classes scheduled at most shows. These are Elementary, Starters, Novice, Intermediate, Senior, Advanced & Open. Elementary, Starters & Novice are open to any dog, owner & handler that has never won an award. A win from 1st to 6th will qualify you out of Elementary. A first place win will put you out of Starters and into Intermediate. 2 first places and you’re out of Novice and into Senior and 4 wins will qualify you for Advanced. Open is open to anyone. Once you’re out of Elementary and Starters you’re out for life, even with another dog. You can only start in Novice with the next one. The average number of dogs in a class these days is 400 so a win in any class is quite an achievement. Faults are incurred in units of 5 for knocking a jump, missing a contact or a weave pole and for a refusal or run past. Taking the wrong course will result in Elimination as will 3 refusals, fouling the ring, leaving the ring out of control and biting the judge! The red rosette and maybe a trophy will go home with the fastest clear round. (Prize money - What prize money?) Maybe a bag of dog food if you’re very lucky! Of course you don’t have to enter
competitions, you can teach your dog Agility just for the fun of it. Or maybe
just get involved with a league match. Scallywags belongs to the Southern Winter
League which involves 6 matches with other clubs during the winter months. Just
8 dogs in a class. A much better chance of getting a red one! top Fear is an emotional response to impending danger and all living creatures are born with the capacity to protect themselves from life-threatening situations. The body’s built in defence mechanism will send adrenaline to the muscles to prepare it to run away or stay and fight with renewed vigour. The nervous or fearful dog will usually choose to flee from the source of the fear and if possible seek the security of a safe corner or den. Phobias or unreasonable fears are learned behaviours. If you are frightened of spiders then it is quite likely that your mother had a fear of spiders and you learnt by example from a very early age. In the same way, dogs can learn to be frightened of thunder from their mother if a thunder storm occurs during the first few weeks of their life. A dog raised by a confident dam and well socialised and habituated at an early age is unlikely to develop fearful behaviour. When a young puppy is faced with something new she will usually investigate, maybe cautiously at first. If nothing unpleasant or painful follows then she will probably find it uninteresting and ignore it. If something rewarding happens then she will approach with confidence. Gradually by frequent exposure she will get used to certain noises and happenings around her. Nervous or fearful dogs are probably the result of simply not receiving an adequate range of experiences as a puppy or learning to respond to the unknown by example from a nervous mother. However even the most bomb-proof upbringing can be undone by exposure to a threatening situation. If a dog that has previously been unaffected by loud noises happened to tread on a sharp stone at the very instant that a car back fired then she would probably, by association of ideas, show a fearful response next time she heard a similar noise. You should never force a dog to face up to her fears. Whilst throwing you in at the deep end may teach you to swim, it could cause you to drown! If something invokes her fight/flight reaction and she is unable to run away or is cornered then she will have no choice but to fight. Similarly if she has fled from a fearful situation and is hiding (or trying to) she will not want to draw attention to herself until the cause of her fear has vanished. If you go to her and make a fuss, whilst you think you are reassuring her, to the dog you are praising and reinforcing her fear as well as showing the predator where she is! Your best course of action is to ignore her fearful behaviour if at all possible. Whilst it is unlikely to be able to turn a very nervous dog into a totally confident one, as certain things can only be learned in puppyhood, it is possible with careful desensitising and counter-conditioning to help a dog overcome certain fears. Dogs can be frightened of many different things, for many different reasons. If your dog is only frightened of big, fat bearded men in red coats then it is unlikely to cause a problem, you’ll just keep her away from the chimney on December 24th! If however she is frightened of something that she is likely to encounter more often than once a year then you may wish to do something about it. A dog that is fearful of noises such as thunder or fireworks or one that shows fear of situations indoors such as visitors would be helped by being provided with an indoor kennel placed in the main living area of the house where she would feel safe and secure and protected from physical danger. Life must go on around her as normal and nothing should be done to reinforce her fear. In the case of thunder or fireworks don’t react to the noise. Pretend you can’t hear it. It is unlikely that she will ever learn not to fear these noises because of the infrequency of their occurrence but you can make sure that her fear doesn’t get any worse. Some success has been achieved with sound sensitive dogs by playing an audio tape of noises such as thunder and gun shots at a very low volume in the background whilst the dog is doing something that she finds rewarding such as playing, eating etc. The volume can be increased gradually over a long period. Days & weeks, not minutes & hours!! If you dog is frightened of some or all visitors to the house then whilst she is in her kennel, they must not even look at her, let alone approach her. If you expose her as often as possible to a constant stream of visitors that do not constitute a threat then she will gradually take it in her stride. Once you can invite people into the house without invoking a fear reaction from the dog then try getting them to walk past her kennel and drop a food treat in. This can be built up very gradually to her taking it from their hand. You may even be able to leave her kennel door open eventually and give her the option of coming out for a piece of food. Desensitisation or counter-conditioning is the process of changing the dog’s expectations of a certain situation. The dog that feared visitors will gradually learn that they are not a threat and indeed can even be rewarding. Because of the complexity of the subject
you should always seek expert advice before embarking on a desensitisation
programme with your dog. Whilst one dog may be taught to overcome her fear of
say, men with beards, by getting a bearded man to throw her favourite ball for
her, another may learn to be frightened of her ball as well as bearded men!! top Indoor kennels or dog crates have been accepted and trusted for years by dog breeders and exhibitors, working trial, obedience and agility competitors, trainers, groomers and veterinarians. The average pet owner however usually rejects the idea of a crate as unfair or even harmful to their dog. Most people value their freedom and as they see their dog as an extension of the human family, putting her in a cage is cruel and inhumane. A dog, however, is a DOG not a HUMAN BEING. Give your dog a bone or a toy and watch her take it under the coffee table or behind the sofa. Where does she usually choose to sleep? Stretched out in the middle of the floor or curled up in a nice cosy corner? Dogs are denning animals and our domestic pets have inherited their denning instinct from their wild ancestors. An indoor kennel or crate will satisfy that natural denning instinct and actually help her to feel more secure. To you it is a cage, to your dog it is home! The advantages of giving your dog her own den within your den are numerous.
INTRODUCING YOUR DOG TO A CRATE.Fold flat wire crates are readily available from most large pet stores and whilst not cheap are definitely a worthwhile investment for all dog owners. Rosewood fold flat crates can be obtained through Scallywags at well below the recommended retail price and most sizes are usually available for hire. Size is important. The length should be the same or a little more than the length of your dog from her nose to the base (not tip) of her tail. Width and height in manufactured crates are proportionate to the length but she should be able to stand up without hitting her head and turn around comfortably. It should be placed in a social part of the house. Kitchen or lounge, wherever you spend the most time or even the bedroom at night for a young puppy where it can gradually be moved to where you want her to sleep. Preferably in a corner but definitely away from draughts and direct heat. Leave the crate up with the door fixed open and allow your dog/puppy to investigate it on her own. Start to encourage her to go inside. Put her blanket in there, toys, titbits, even her meal. Once she is happy to go in and settle then close the door for a second or two and gradually build this up. If she objects to the door being closed then it is important for obvious reasons that you wait for her to settle before opening it. With the exception of overnight it would not be advisable to confine your dog for more than 3 or 4 hours at a time. Before you leave her in her crate make sure that she is well exercised and that she has ‘been’. Always remove her collar, for safety reasons and leave her water either in a clip on bowl or a non-spill bowl with a lid. It is also a good idea to leave her a good quality chew toy to occupy her, perhaps one that she only has when you leave her so as to retain it’s novelty value. NEVER SEND YOUR DOG TO HER CRATE FOR PUNISHMENT It is important that your dog’s associations with her crate are positive and pleasant. It should not be used frequently for long hours for the convenience of the absent owner. Not all dogs will readily accept a crate. A rescue dog that has maybe suffered in the past through being confined or perhaps a senior citizen that is too set in her ways but this is the exception rather than the rule YOUR DOG’S HEALTHtopWith thanks to N. Van Zyl BvSc. M.R.C.V.S. On buying a puppy take it to your vet for a thorough M.O.T. Puppies up to the age of 13 weeks should not mix unless the dogs are fully immunised and in perfect health. Puppies also should not be taken to a place where other unknown dogs have been. Vaccine is given at 8 to 9 weeks of age and again at 12 weeks of age. At 13 weeks your puppy can socialise freely. When feeding a puppy one must remember that all it has had is it’s mothers milk, a protein. Cows milk however, may cause an upset and should be avoided. Starches such as breakfast cereals or other grains in excess may be poorly digested and can cause stomach upsets. Puppy tins or dry foods are the safest. Certain other protein foods may be given on the advice of your vet. Food and water bowls should be thoroughly washed every day. Fresh drinking water must be provided and if you notice excess drinking and urination consult your vet. Puppies do not need bathing as a routine. They do however need grooming. Ears should be checked for excess wax. Use an ear cleaner on your vet’s advice. Take care to gradually phase in ear cleaning as your puppy must grow to like this. Reward as an encouragement is a good thing. Ear diseases result from dirty ears and therefore they need periodic veterinary examination. If your dog enjoys having her ears examined this will be a simple matter. As it is not always practical to use cleaners the ears may have to be syringed whilst under sedation. Keeping ears in good health at all times prevents thickening of the inner lining of the ear. Bathing your dog’s eyes with water is not always a good thing. If there is a continuous discharge the eyes will need to be treated by your vet. Your dog’s bedding should be washed regularly and you must keep her free from chills. If she gets wet dry her as soon as possible with a towel and use a hair dryer. The latter may take some time to get used to. Slowly does it is the answer. Some breeds need to be bathed and groomed at regular intervals, others need daily brushing. When bathing your dog take care to use a shampoo that is not too harsh, and so avoid drying out the coat of natural oils. Check that your dog’s nails do not grow too long. Care of the teeth in the adult dog is important. Toothbrushes and paste are marketed for dogs and cats and are used very successfully. Oral hygiene is very essential to your dog’s health as some diseases and premature renal failure are exacerbated by oral disease. Bones are regarded as dangerous and the decision to give your dog a BIG bone should be made in conjunction with your vet. Bones help to keep the teeth clean. When you take your dog in for her yearly jab your vet will evaluate her teeth and gums and may advise a tooth descaling and polishing to get in all the nooks and crannies at the back of her mouth. Scent glands. All dogs are born with these little pea sized glands under the tail. These glands have small openings which can become blocked and cause irritation. It is advisable to have them regularly emptied. If this becomes a regular problem surgery may be necessary to remove them. External parasites are a perennial problem. Most common is the flea. There are also mange parasites. Prevention of flea infestation is far better than your dog making you aware that it has fleas. By this stage many flea eggs have been laid and your house is a source of re-infection. Despite the best of remedies the flea persists for some weeks and your dog may develop a flea allergy. Seek advice and preventative treatment before the problem has manifested itself. Dogs have three main types of worms - two roundworms and tapeworms. the roundworms do not leave your dog in the normal course of events and you may not be aware of their existence. They live a long time and slowly cause anaemia and disease. They may also be a human health hazard. these worms are easily picked up by walking your dog where other dogs have been. Consult your vet as to the frequency of de-worming. Tapeworms are easy to spot as a segment of worm appears from time to time. The flea is the intermediate host of the tapeworm. De-worming and defeating your dog at the same time is essential. FURTHER RECOMMENDED READINGtop
HOW TO SPEAK DOG by Stanley Coren THE OTHER END OF THE LEASH by Patricia McConnell THE DOG WHISPERER. A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training by Paul Owens DON'T SHOOT THE DOG by Karen Pryor LADS BEFORE THE WIND by Karen Pryor THINK DOG by John Fisher WHY DOES MY DOG by John Fisher DOGWISE by John Fisher DO DOGS NEED SHRINKS by Peter Neville THE PERFECT PUPPY by Gwen Bailey CULTURE CLASH by Jean Donaldson UNDERSTANDING YOUR DOG by John Rogerson YOUR DOG, IT'S DEVELOPMENT, BEHAVIOUR & TRAINING by John Rogerson DOG BEHAVIOUR - WHY DOGS DO WHAT THEY DO
by Ian Dunbar
SOME FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ..AND THE ANSWERS top
AND FINALLY............A PAGE FOR THE DOGS - SOME GOOD ADVICE FROM FIDOtopNever show respect to someone who calls
you the dog, instead of by your name. WHY PUNISHMENT HAS NO PLACE IN TRAINING topThere will always be those who believe that a 'good hiding' never does any harm and that mistakes should be punished. The following case histories are all true and illustrate that sometimes it can be harmful to use physical punishment. The dog's names have been changed. Ben, a 6 months old Border Collie with few experiences of other dogs, was jumped on by a boisterous Labrador while he was on his lead. Although the other dog was 'only being freindly', the next time Ben saw a black dog he was understandably defensive and showed his teeth. He was punished with a tap on the nose from his owner. Ben soon learnt that that an approaching dog not only made him fearful it also made his owner angry. His aggression became worse and the punishment got harder. By the time he was 9 months old he was attacking other dogs on sight. Had his owner not punished him initially for showing his teeth but instead had made an effort to introduce him to a few calm dogs to counter balance the experience with the Labrador then Ben would at 9 months old been a normal well-adjusted dog. Although it could be argued that it was the early experience with the other dog that caused Ben's aggression, it was undoubtedly the punishment meted out for showing aggression that ensured that it continued and became worse. Ben was put to sleep on his first birthday. Amber, a Golden Retriever, typically thought as a young puppy that anything she found on the floor was a chew toy. She particularly liked socks. From an early age she was punished for picking up the children's dirty washing. She very quickly learnt that to pursue her favourite occupation and avoid punishment she should only pick up socks when her owners weren't looking and if they entered the room to quickly swallow them. She had her first operation to remove a sock from her stomach at 11 months old, a second one at 14 months old. She did not survive the third, age 18 months. The family's second Retriever has been taught to retrieve and is never scolded for picking up anything in her mouth. Consequently she now happily collects the dirty washing and brings it to the kitchen. Brutus, a Staffordshire Bull Terrier and Monty, a small crossbreed terrier had lived together for two years and were firm freinds. They occasionally went to work with their owner but Brutus would bark when left in the van. An electric shock collar was thought to be the answer. The first time that Brutus barked in the van he was 'zapped' from a remote control. He immediately turned on Monty and had killed him before his owner could open the van door Brutus obviously thought that Monty was the cause of the severe pain that he had felt and although his actions were impulsive, they were entirely natural. Toby, Maddie, Barney and Sophie are just a few of the many dogs that as puppies were scolded for toileting in the house. All four were initially encouraged to 'go' in the house on newspaper. They were also rewarded when they went in the garden. Because they were shouted at and smacked at such a young age they became confused about learning and distrustful of their owners. Despite this early experience all four eventually became house trained. However - Toby the Jack Russell was so sure that he would be hit if he went to his owner that his recall was non-existant. 2 years later, he still cannot be let off the lead. Maddie, the Dobermann started to show aggression towards her owners whenever they raised their voices, even though they never hit her again. They have now stopped shouting at her and she has thankfully not bitten them. As a result of the punishment associated with the house, Barney, the Boxer refused to come in from the garden. He should have access to a one acre garden. Instead he has a small fenced dog run. He also has no recall when he's out and has to stay on lead. Sophie, the Shih Tzu still has the occasional accident indoors behind the settee because she will not ask to go out. Her recall however is brilliant. Her housetraining didn't involve her being called to be punished, she was picked up and taken to the 'mistake'. Her owners cannot pick her up now without being snapped at. Experience has shown that some dogs trained using
punishment will turn our just fine whilst others will become aggressive towards
dogs or people or both (mainly towards their owners and the children) and the
rest will become withdrawn and nervous and incapable of learning through fear of
getting it wrong. Trainers that still advise using harsh methods are encouraged
to continue by the success of the few that survive!
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